When the first Benihana
opened in 1964, Japanese cuisine was
unknown to the United
States and the
idea of having a chef prepare a meal at
your table was completely unheard of.
Blending exotic Japanese dishes with a
dazzling chef performance may have been
a radical idea, but it was the recipe
for success at Benihana. More than
100,000,000 meals have been served since
1964.
By bringing Japanese
food into the mainstream and pioneering
its "eatertainment" style of
presentation, Benihana has also paved
the way in America for the popularity of
other Japanese cooking styles and food
products. Sushi is now a favorite all
over the U.S. and soy sauce has become a
staple in numerous American kitchens,
all thanks to Benihana.
This incredible American
success story really had its roots in
Japan right after the war. At that time,
Yunosuke Aoki, (Yoo-OOH-No-Soo-Kay
Ah-OH-Kee), a samurai descendant and a
popular Japanese entertainer together
with his wife Katsu (KAHT-Soo), opened a
small coffee shop in Tokyo. A red
safflower, found in the neighborhood
streets gave the Aoki's the inspiration
for the restaurant's name - Benihana -
which in Japanese means "red flower."
From his show business
background, Yunosuke was well aware of
the publics' attraction to something
"different." This little Benihana
coffeehouse soon became known for
serving and using real sugar. Yunosuke
would have to pedal his bicycle more
than 20 miles to purchase the sugar.
The family's four sons
grew up with the coffee shop, which
later became a full service restaurant.
Each of them understood the restaurant
business from the ground up - the
importance of absolute cleanliness in
the kitchen, using the freshest
ingredients and the very best cooking
tools money could buy.
The eldest son, Hiroaki
(HE-ROH-AH-Kee) also grasped the
important lesson of offering guests
something out of the ordinary and he
could not help but inherit his father's
appreciation for the "theatrical." There
was something magical about this
combination and the thought stayed with
him as he completed college in Japan.
Meanwhile, Hiroaki's athletic ability
had not been overlooked. His facility
for wrestling earned him a spot on the
Japanese Olympic wrestling team. This
team membership would eventually bring
him to America.
By the time Hiroaki
arrived on U.S. soil in 1960, he had
already begun to form the idea that this
country might be ready for a marriage of
a different kind of food - presented
with an entertaining flair.
Adopting a name, which
would be easier for Americans to
pronounce, Rocky Aoki set off to have
his dream become reality. He worked
seven days a week selling ice cream in
New York City and studied restaurant
management at night. Through saving and
borrowing, Rocky scraped together enough
money to finance his first four-table
restaurant on New York's W. 56th St.
As they worked within
the authentic Japanese farmhouse
interior, the Benihana dining concept
gradually came into focus. Food would be
prepared right at the table "teppan-yaki"
style (Teppan meaning "steel grill" and
yaki meaning "broiled") with dazzling
effects by highly trained chefs. Rocky
also believed that because the
restaurant was near Broadway, the
showmanship of the chefs was extremely
important. Beef, chicken and shrimp
would be the stars of the menu, all
prepared "hibachi-style" (an
American-style term for "teppan-yaki"
cooking). Guests at the communal tables
would place their orders with the chef
and watch in amazement as these items
were sliced and diced, and flipped into
the air. The timing in cooking was
critical. These different ingredients
had to be ready to serve onto the
guests' plates simultaneously.
In 1964, after all the
preparation and planning, Benihana of
Tokyo was only serving one or two
customers a day. Aoki family members
moonlighted at other restaurants just to
pay the bills. But, six months after the
restaurant opened, an enthusiastic
review by Clementine Paddleford,
legendary restaurant critic of the New
York Herald-Tribune reversed the trend
for good. New Yorkers flocked to the
four-table Benihana and Rocky Aoki
suddenly found himself in the position
of having to turn dining guests away.